Day 18 of 36
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
We got up about 7 am and went to the Executive Lounge for our breakfast and strong coffee. Today we are headed to the outskirts of HCMC to Cu Chi Tunnels where the Viet Cong lived underground. This was a maze of very small tunnels - 250 km of them - over 160 miles - where over 10,000 VC lived.
We got in our hotel supplied Mercedes with our driver and headed through the streets of HCMC in heavy traffic. The traffic still amazes me after almost 2 weeks in Vietnam. I don't know how it works but it does without everyone getting hit. We were about an hour out of the city and the police stopped our driver - we don't know why. We think the Mercedes was an easy target. I noticed the drive putting a large Dong bill in his papers, he got out of the car and went to talk to the police and then returned. I guess if you have money in your papers, things get handled more quickly?
We drove through all kinds of back roads to get to Cu Chi. We commented that tourists would never be able to find this on their own. No English signs, and few signs of any kind. Our driver bought our tickets and we went through a new tunnel under the road to meet our guide - a thin Vietnamese young man who made it clear that he aligned with the Viet Cong. He did a good tour with good explanations and understandable English.
The first tunnel he showed us was camouflaged with leaves on the top of the small cap. One of the Vietnamese lowered himself into the tunnel. A couple of the tourists tried - one man couldn't get his shoulders past the opening it was so small. Most of the tunnels are this size but one was doubled in size to allow tourists inside.
We saw bomb craters and other displays. A cook hole with the smoke exhaust vented through a tunnel 25-30 feet away so the smoke would not show where the kitchen tunnel was directly. There was a shooting range where you could shoot real guns with real bullets but we didn't do that. They used no ear protection. They had lots of bottles of snake wine here - the guide told me "this will make your wife very happy" as he raised his arm and tightened his fist. He smiled.
They showed us a hut where they were making rice papers - used to roll up food for spring rolls. They had them drying in the sun on bamboo racks.
We got to the tunnel that we were to visit. They had widened the opening considerably but you had to sort of jump down into the tunnel and boy was it tight. And they widened the tunnel too! You had to crouch over and move along with your head and shoulders bumping the sides. It was dark, small, and HOT. Tim went to the second exit but Larry headed out at the first exit. Enough of an adventuresome experience. I'm glad I did it but it was a bit claustrophobic for me.
Our Vietnamese guide explained to us that his father fought for the Viet Cong and he was sympathetic to the Communists. His father was injured in the war and the guide hates the American GI for what they did to his countrymen and country. He asked where I was from and when I told him "America", he made a face and pretended to strike my arm (all in jest). But he was obviously serious.
He showed us how they made "Ho Chi Minh shoes" from old tire treads. The Viet Cong would wear these backward to confuse the US GI's - we would think they were going in one direction when they were really going in the opposite direction. This was a way that we were not ready for - they outwitted us in every regard. Hopefully, we'll learn from history.
We skipped the narrated movie as Tim needed to get back to the hotel for some work items. So we found our driver in the parking lot. We obviously got back early as he came running across the parking lot without his hotel uniform on - just a tee shirt. He gave us ice cold towels and that felt so good as it was so hot and steamy. This location is right on the Saigon River and the guide had told us that the tunnels ran down to the river.
The drive back into HCMC took about 1 1/2 hours. He dropped us at the hotel front door, we freshened up and then headed out for a "Pho" (pronounced "fuh") lunch - noodles with various things in it. I had beef pho, Tim had chicken pho with spring rolls. I had hot tea that was good but the crumbled tea leaves were just floating in the water and not strained. I had creme brulee for dessert and that was good. After lunch, Tim headed back to the hotel to work and I headed off to explore and wander.
First I went to the Saigon River. Passed Maxim's restaurant that specializes in Vietnamese food. Not much to see on the river and it was impossible to cross the street here due to the wide street packed with traffic. So I kept walking. Got to a large bridge but there was no pedestrian walk and there was no way I was going to walk over with that traffic. So I headed a different direction getting somewhat lost - that was fun. Found another street market full of shoes - all shoes of every kind. Passed several sidewalks with motorbike parking. The sidewalk was roped off and they used it to park their minibikes - so I had to walk in the street! Found my way back to the big Tranh Market where we were yesterday. The traffic circle here is reputedly the busiest in HCMC so I stood and watched the traffic going every which a way - amazing.
I crossed over to the market and roamed through again. Lot of people pulling on me - "What you like?", "What you looking for, mister?", "How much you spend?", "Look here, mister", "Where you from?", etc. Many of the young girls pull on you to get you into their shop. Anything to start up a conversation. I found a quieter tee shirt stall and bargained with the lady for 2 tee shirts - a red one and green one with the gold Vietnamese star. She wanted $6 each but I got them for $3 each. It was fun bargaining. Tim was happy with his green one since I don't wear green! It sprinkled a couple of times while I was out and I was a ways from the hotel and the skies were getting darker by the minute so I headed back to the Caravelle. Actually just in time as it started raining shortly after my return.
I got back and updated my blog and email and took a nap while it rained cats and dogs with blustery winds. Tim worked.
About 6 we went to the Executive Lounge for our red wine. This time we sat at the far end of the lounge from the food so we wouldn't eat. We have reservations at a very special restaurant tonight at 8 - Au Manoir de Khai. French food at its finest. We enjoyed the night lights over HCMC while we had our wine. HCMC is much more developed with neon signs and high rises - unlike the other Vietnamese cities we have visited. I thought it was interesting that HCMC had developed this way first. Tim commented that we had been so afraid of the spread of communism but this couldn't be any more of a capitalist society. Money - Money - Money.
We left about 7:40 to get a taxi to the restaurant. It was located in a large old mansion with gardens. We were taken to the second floor up a large split stairway. Only 4 tables occupied so it was quiet. Au Manoir de Khai had a classic French menu. We received an "amuse bouche" that was a small slice of fois gras. Delicious. I had a seafood bisque and Tim had grantinee of scallops - both delicious. We had a cleansing of the pallet with a block of ice with a hole into which was put some sorbet with Cointreau. Main course was Tournedos with fois gras and black truffles for Larry (yummy!) and lamb tenderloin. We had preordered Grand Marnier souffles for dessert and they arrived a bit later and were spectacular. We had splurged with a fabulous bottle of 2003 Margaux - it was delicious with our meals. The service was over the top with 3 tuxedoed waiters attending to our every need. They didn't hover but were very attentive. A delicious, delicious French meal for our last night in Vietnam. Cost about $220. The taxi ride there and back was less than $2 each way. Taxis are a real deal - reminded us of China.
We returned to the hotel. Tim did some more work and Larry finished his Julia Child book "My Life in France". Then to sleep for our last night in Vietnam.
We agreed that we have had a marvelous time - but neither of us felt a desire at this point to return to Vietnam - there are too many other places to visit. We are glad we came but on to new adventures. We sleep with great anticipation of our visit tomorrow to Cambodia.
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