
Day 32 of 26
Paris, France and Vaux-le-Vicomte
The Hotel de la Bretonnerie is very quiet. My room is on the back of the hotel away from the busy street with a courtyard - very quiet. I slept so well. Woke up about 8, got dressed. Checked email - Al won't be ready for coffee - and I need to go to catch my train to Vaux le Vicomte anyway. Never done this via train so I am hoping the day goes okay.
I walked to Hotel de Ville and took the Metro to Gare de Lyon, only about 3 stops away. Then it became very confusing. It was not clear how to get to Melun. So I went into an information counter and she told me to go to another platform - Quay 17 - and that train went to Melun. I walked there (to the yellow platforms) and the train was getting ready to leave - but I didn't have a ticket. So I found a machine to buy a ticket and - AARRGH - the stupid thing won't take US credit cards - you have to have a card with "a chip" in it. Which I don't have. So I checked my "coins" and had just enough to get the ticket - 14.5 euros for a roundtrip ticket.
But by then the train had gone. So now to find another train to Melun. I asked a conductor and he told me to go back to the blue platforms. I realized when I got there that the conductor was reading the "arrivee" charts rather than the "depart" charts. So I need to start over. I studied the charts and finally figured it out. But I had missed the 9:05 am train and the next one was at 12:35. Geez - I don't want to wait that long. So I kept studying the chart and figured out that there was another train that stopped in Melun that left at 10:35. Just to make sure I stopped a lady information person and confirmed this with her. I took a seat and people-watched for an hour.
They posted the quay on the departure board and I went to the train, but then didn't know how to "validate" my ticket. There was a yellow box but that was for "big" tickets and I had a little one. I found the information person again and in french she explained to me that I needed to find the 'gris' box (gray). OK - I can do this. And lo and behold I found it, validated my ticket and got on the train and took my seat. While we were waiting to leave a couple came on asking another lady how to validate her tickets. The woman told her - do nothing and speak german if you are questioned! I offered my help to the couple, they were appreciative, they left the train, validated their tickets and returned. She appreciated my help.
We left Paris Gare de Lyon right on time and the 25 minute ride to Melun was smooth. Countryside, outskirts of Paris, trees, small villages. Beautiful countryside. It's France! Got off in Melun, the first stop, and went to find the Cafe de la Gare, where the ChateauxBus leaves. Unfornately, the bus only operates on Saturday and Sunday. I waited a while to make sure it wasn't coming, but it didn't. So I got a taxi - it cost 20 euros to get there (about $30). The driver was a Portugese man who had moved to France in the mid '60's. He spoke good English. He offered to come back to pick me up at the end of my tour since transportation from the chateau is an issue.
Vaux le Vicomte needs to advertise more and become tourist friendly. It is a difficult place to get to. But it is the most beautiful and peaceful place. I was so excited when we turned down the small lane leading to the chateau. It is lined with tall french maple trees (they look like sycamore with the colorful bark). The taxi pulled up in front of the chateau and I had arrived. I paid the driver and set a time to meet for the return to the train in Melun. I walked to the middle of the chateau entrance and took it all in - and took pictures. Also got pictures of the tree lined lane that is so beautiful.
I went in and got a "Tour Simple" ticket for the house and gardens. I snapped pictures all along the way. I first went through the stables, where I had never been before. The moat was filled surrounding the chateau. I went in through the front door and bought a book on the chateau and an audio tour. The tour was informative and I learned things I didn't know. Such a magnificent chateau. I got to go for a visit to the dome where I had never been. The superstructure holding it up is incredible. The view breathtaking from the top. The chateau had a lot of displays and commentary about Nicolas Fouquet and how he had been betrayed and lost everything.
Then to the gardens - magnificent. Words don't describe the beauty. Plots and containers of flowers, topiary boxwood. Beautifully sculptured boxwood in intrique designs. Fountains, pools - round, square, and rectangular. You want to the far end of the gardens and then you realize there is a long "water feature" that you didn't even know existed. I walked around the end of it and a group of young French schoolgirls approached me wanting to speak English. We talked - they in broken English, me in broken French. I took their picture. To the far side of the water and the structures were beautiful. I walked up the hill to the Herculese statue and took it all in.
I then started back so I could meet my driver. Such a beautiful peaceful place. Not many tourists as many people don't know about Vaux le Vicomte. A special place.
My taxi driver was about 10 minutes late but I had plenty of time to get the train back to Paris. It was 22 euros for the taxi ride (an expensive proposition!). I had to wait about 20 minutes for the train, but it arrived right on time and we were off to Paris Gare de Lyon. I slept most of the way - that was a lot of walking today.
On arrival I stopped in a small cafe and had a light lunch and a large beer. Too much but I was hungry. I decided to walk back to the hotel - went by the Bastille monument and enjoyed the people watching along the way. The french men are now wearing these tight jeans that seem to be in fashion. It was warm so I was in short sleeves. I wove my way through the Marais and went by the big synagogue. It is Yom Kippur and they were selling these yellow fruit looking things (looked like lemons) in white boxes and also reeds. I later asked Al what these were but he didn't know. There were tables and tables of these fruits and they were carefully inspecting them to get just the perfect ones.
I went back to the hotel to freshen up for my evening with Al Stewart. I went to his flat at pm and we had champagne and hors d'oeuvres and interesting chat. We caught up on is adventures in Egypt. A little before 9 we left and took the metro to Le Vagabond for dinner. I had melon and proscuitto, gigot d'agneau, and ile flottante. It was so good but I was stuffed. We decided to walk back to the Marais to walk off dinner and that was good. Al showed me where to go for coffee in the morning and then I went off to the hotel. I was pooped - a busy day in Paris. We agreed to touch base in the morning and maybe have coffee, but I was planning to "sleep in".
A great visit to Vaux le Vicomte. Fabulous.